However, for the past few Sundays, Chloe, my mother, and I have gone back. Last Sunday as we exited the taxi on 116th and Adam Clayton Powell Bouelvard, Chloe noticed two separate lines: one for tourists and one for parishioners. As we got into line, she said, "This is just like the 1890's: one line for the black people and one line for the white people. I wish that Martin Luther King was still alive."
Harlem 2015 |
The pre-church selfie was Grandma's idea. |
Well, I'm still bothered, but not for the same reason. Minutes into one service I looked behind me and saw a row of four white men, who looked to be college students sitting with smirks on their faces. Who were these guys, I wondered. Did they hear about the music at this particular church on the latest episode of GIRLS and decide to check it out? If I was being generous, I would say that they were trying to suppress nervous laughter that was the result of feeling uncomfortable with the expression of naked emotion. Either that or they just found us funny . . .
It is ironic that the church is in the home of a former theater |
Since black churches remain reliant on tourist dollars in order to maintain buildings, implement social programs, and pay their preachers I don't see anything changing. Although blacks used to be forced into the balconies of theaters and that dynamic is now reversed- the old power dynamic remains. Somehow even when black people are establishing the rules of engagement we still end up under the white gaze.
Today, in Harlem churches whites go to the balcony. |
The Edge Harlem is owned an operated by sisters of Jamaican and Welsh parentage, and the confluence of Jamaica, England, and New York is reflected in the menu. I had an amazing spicy shrimp salad with mango salsa, Chloe had a bagel with cream cheese, lox, and capers, and my mother had a hamburger with a fried egg and bacon. It looked too rich for me, but I tried it and it was amazing! We will be back.
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